Discover the peaceful paradise of Straumfjörður, where Svanur Steinarsson and his family carry on the tradition of eider farming on their beautiful West Iceland land.

"We love collecting the eiderdown and walking around our land. It's peaceful on the islands," says Svanur Steinarsson of his family's eider farm in Straumfjörður near Borgarnes in West Iceland. "We go, my wife and I, our daughters, my brother and sister and their children." Eider farming is a family operation, and they use the income to maintain their family farm, which they use as a holiday retreat.  

Straumfjörður used to be an island, Svanur explains, but when his grandfather bought the farm in 1939, he built a road, connecting it permanently to land. There are many other islets and skerries that belong to Straumfjörður, where the eiders nest primarily.  

In the late 1980s, there were over 2,000 eider nests in Straumfjörður. Their number dropped significantly after a fox entered the nesting site, making the eiders reluctant to return. "There was horrid weather last year, and we only picked down from 300 nests. The situation looks better now," Svanur says optimistically. "I'm working on improving the nesting sites."  

He takes us on a zodiac to one of the main eider nesting islands. The white sand beach makes it look tropical. "I often swim in the sea here," says Svanur. Curious seals stick their head out of the water, observing us. "They're following the brown trout,"he explains. The island is packed with eider nests. Next to them, puffins have their burrows. An oystercatcher hovers above, shrieking nervously. One of the eggs is about to hatch. Arctic terns are all around.  

In Straumfjörður, there used to be a village where foreign merchants would sell their goods. The ruins of the old houses can still be seen. In 1936, the Pourquoi-Pas? a French expedition ship coming from Greenland, stranded there in terrible weather. Everyone except one perished. "The wreck is still here, and it's under protection. I'm its guardian. I'm a diver and sometimes take groups to the wreck – mainly French," says Svanur.  

Other people visit for the birds. "One elderly Scottish bird lover who comes year after year. He follows the red knot,"explains Svanur. Photographers have visited as well, looking for eagles. "There's an eagle with a nest nearby, but it doesn't hunt the ducks here – they always go further away to find prey. The number of eiders has increased because they feel safe close to the eagle nest."   

Svanur is often in Straumfjörður but lives in Borgarnes, where he and his wife run a gift and yarn store selling Icelandic wool. A mechanic by profession, Svanur is responsible for keeping the farm's boats in proper condition. He also does some farming on the side. "I have 12 horses and 10 sheep. My grandfather taught me sustainability. I catch fish and pick eggs. I smoke trout and lamb and make sausages. I never buy meat or fish." In Straumfjörður, Svanur is in his element. "I would like to live here all year, or at least all summer. To me, this is paradise! I love being close to the birds and taking care of them."  